Can I Clean Install Win10 One New HDD With Only Win7 Disc As Proof?
- Thread starter gapi
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Hello Gapi,
Absolutely! Check this out from my favorite answers guy :
http://www.howtogeek.com/224342/how-to-clean-install-windows-10/
cheers! allan
Absolutely! Check this out from my favorite answers guy :
http://www.howtogeek.com/224342/how-to-clean-install-windows-10/cheers! allan
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Hello again Gapi,
Yes, you qualify for Win10 Pro.
Not really sure what you are looking for with your second question, but I'll give it a go:
Purchasing a 'packaged' system is not the only way to acquire bloatware. And it isn't just that which a clean install targets.
Typically, a user will download stuff, try it out, then uninstall it. Many times these uninstall scripts don't remove everything. There is almost always entries left in the registry, and folders and files left behind. as time goes on, all this builds up into a lot of clutter, both on disk, and in your registry.
Even if you manually go behind and remove files and folders from the program files directories, and then defrag your disk, you may not get it all. Because sometimes the applications leave behind DLLs located in your windows folders, and data in your local user folders, broken menu shortcuts and so on. The result is a system that was snappy when you got it, but has likely slowed right down with bloat.
A clean install does just that; gives you back your 'clean installed' new, snappy system. But you have to completely set it back up from scratch by restoring your documents (after relocating their folders off your SSD) and reinstalling all your programs. etc.
Think of an upgrade as sliding a new glove over your system as is. You don't get rid of any of the bloat. You may actually add some more. The advantage is, that you likely may not have to restore your documents. Or reinstall all your programs,or re-tweak this and that, if you have a successful upgrade. Note I would strongly advise you to back up all your documents, pictures, music, etc. before any major upgrade.
I too upgraded a system utilizing SSDs. The upgrade did not go as well as I would have liked. For most of the stuff I had moved off the SSD, the upgrade ignored and assumed all was on my SSD (c:drive) again. It created new empty folders and broke the pointers to my full ones on another disk. Same with live Mail. It too had to be redirected from an empty new live mail structure on my SSD. So i had to redo it all . And there has been more than a few programs that did not function after the upgrade. In hindsight, I wished I had taken the time to do a clean install. I've spent the better part of 2 weeks fixing and tweaking anyway. I believe a clean install would have taken less time for sure.
One other tidbit you need to consider if you chose to upgrade over clean install. The size of your SSD. The upgrade actually keeps a whole copy of your current system in folder called Windows.old. on C drive. So to give you an idea your SSD needs to be big enough for approximately 2 times your current used space. And then the rule of thumb is never allow your system disk to get more than 75% full as disk access time starts to suffer increasingly. I believe windows keeps it there for 30 days; to support their promise to allow everybody opportunity to roll back to Win 7 anytime within the 30 days.
There is a lot of resources on the net to provide guidance in both types of installs, as well has how to best configure a system that utilizes an SSD for a system drive. My advise is to do your research home work, and backup yoru stuff, so you are comfortable at the moment you take the plunge.
Cheers, allan
Yes, you qualify for Win10 Pro.
Not really sure what you are looking for with your second question, but I'll give it a go:
Purchasing a 'packaged' system is not the only way to acquire bloatware. And it isn't just that which a clean install targets.
Typically, a user will download stuff, try it out, then uninstall it. Many times these uninstall scripts don't remove everything. There is almost always entries left in the registry, and folders and files left behind. as time goes on, all this builds up into a lot of clutter, both on disk, and in your registry.
Even if you manually go behind and remove files and folders from the program files directories, and then defrag your disk, you may not get it all. Because sometimes the applications leave behind DLLs located in your windows folders, and data in your local user folders, broken menu shortcuts and so on. The result is a system that was snappy when you got it, but has likely slowed right down with bloat.
A clean install does just that; gives you back your 'clean installed' new, snappy system. But you have to completely set it back up from scratch by restoring your documents (after relocating their folders off your SSD) and reinstalling all your programs. etc.
Think of an upgrade as sliding a new glove over your system as is. You don't get rid of any of the bloat. You may actually add some more. The advantage is, that you likely may not have to restore your documents. Or reinstall all your programs,or re-tweak this and that, if you have a successful upgrade. Note I would strongly advise you to back up all your documents, pictures, music, etc. before any major upgrade.
I too upgraded a system utilizing SSDs. The upgrade did not go as well as I would have liked. For most of the stuff I had moved off the SSD, the upgrade ignored and assumed all was on my SSD (c:drive) again. It created new empty folders and broke the pointers to my full ones on another disk. Same with live Mail. It too had to be redirected from an empty new live mail structure on my SSD. So i had to redo it all . And there has been more than a few programs that did not function after the upgrade. In hindsight, I wished I had taken the time to do a clean install. I've spent the better part of 2 weeks fixing and tweaking anyway. I believe a clean install would have taken less time for sure.
One other tidbit you need to consider if you chose to upgrade over clean install. The size of your SSD. The upgrade actually keeps a whole copy of your current system in folder called Windows.old. on C drive. So to give you an idea your SSD needs to be big enough for approximately 2 times your current used space. And then the rule of thumb is never allow your system disk to get more than 75% full as disk access time starts to suffer increasingly. I believe windows keeps it there for 30 days; to support their promise to allow everybody opportunity to roll back to Win 7 anytime within the 30 days.
There is a lot of resources on the net to provide guidance in both types of installs, as well has how to best configure a system that utilizes an SSD for a system drive. My advise is to do your research home work, and backup yoru stuff, so you are comfortable at the moment you take the plunge.
Cheers, allan
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Back early Apr, after backing everything up and ensuring no antivirus software was running, I upgraded my 2009 desktop clone (HDD running W7 Pro) to W10 Pro. All went well. After the 30day rollback period had passed (Windows.old folder now empty) I cloned the HDD to a new Samsung SSD (making it my new C drive), using software that came with the SSD. All went well. I reformatted my original HDD and it's now my E drive. My experience with W10 has been all positive.
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Thanks, Very Nice,
My Windows 7 install is corrupted. A reg-edit attempt to thwart the forced upgrade screwed me up. So I have to go clean.
What I want to do on my home built PC is.
If there is a shorter route please do tell. I am reading up on the install media thing. Please chime in.
My Windows 7 install is corrupted. A reg-edit attempt to thwart the forced upgrade screwed me up. So I have to go clean.
What I want to do on my home built PC is.
- Disconnect my HDDs'
- Connect the SSD.
- Insert my Win7 Pro DVD and begin the install.
- Let it discover its a Win 7 OS and offer the upgrade.
- Accept the upgrade.
- After completion, updated and drivers are all done connect the old HDD and drag and drop all my docs, pics, and downloads and such saved data over.
If there is a shorter route please do tell. I am reading up on the install media thing. Please chime in.
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that could work but it would not be 100 percent clean. As you will have installed 7 and then updated it to 10.
A better and possibly quicker way would be to reach out to somebody else's computer and use the windows media creation tool. To create a USB or .Iso to burn a DVD. (google it). USB is quicker.
When you find the tool on Microsoft site, there is instructions u could print that explain exactly how to do a clean install using the tool and a win 7 product key.
Good luck
allan
Thumb sent.
A better and possibly quicker way would be to reach out to somebody else's computer and use the windows media creation tool. To create a USB or .Iso to burn a DVD. (google it). USB is quicker.
When you find the tool on Microsoft site, there is instructions u could print that explain exactly how to do a clean install using the tool and a win 7 product key.
Good luck
allan
Thumb sent.
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Hi Mr. Ed,
Absolutely awesome to hear. I am assuming you have found some good online resources that explain how to move the windows trashing (i mean traffic) to E: drive to preserve your limited write life SSD. That is definitely the way to go. Window boots and programs start so fast from an SSD. .
Unfortunately Gabi, and myself were already optimized with our system (SSD) disk and Work (HDD) disks when we attempted the win 10 update. I can attest to how poorly the update did given that situation. Once we spend a few extra days sorting out the install, we can move on to positive experiences. Gabi is close, I believe.
best regards, allan
P.S. I love your smile. I tried, but with a pus like mine, smile just makes it worse. LOL.
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Real close. Why I am going Win10 and SSD.
I had the misfortune of the MPC invasion Malware getting into my machine and its been a battle removing it.
Most non-tech users would have thrown the PC in the trash. Malwarebytes had to make three passes to get it out.
Their third pass was today and she is smooth again and WaL-La! The USB creation media tool worked after the 3rd pass this AM. There was almost 500 items in all kinds of places from this Malware!
I sold an item on Ebay for $300.00 that's in shipment right now. As soon as he receives it and I know he is happy, I'll be getting the Sandisk X400 1TB SSD. From my research its all I need and the 5 year warranty is sweet.
Yes, I'll be reporting all my steps here.
I had the misfortune of the MPC invasion Malware getting into my machine and its been a battle removing it.
Most non-tech users would have thrown the PC in the trash. Malwarebytes had to make three passes to get it out.
Their third pass was today and she is smooth again and WaL-La! The USB creation media tool worked after the 3rd pass this AM. There was almost 500 items in all kinds of places from this Malware!
I sold an item on Ebay for $300.00 that's in shipment right now. As soon as he receives it and I know he is happy, I'll be getting the Sandisk X400 1TB SSD. From my research its all I need and the 5 year warranty is sweet.
Yes, I'll be reporting all my steps here.
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Gapi,
It's not my place to discourage or rob you of the awesome felling of acquiring some new pc hardware because we all know how great that feels!
What size is you current SSD? I have two in my machine and they are both 240GB each. I have Win 7 on one and win 10 on the other. BothOS's are configured to do most of their reading and writing to a 1-TB HDD. I can boot from either and I am still sharing my same document, picture, music, mail etc. as they have been moved from C: to D (the HDD).
After hearing about the trouble you have been having, I have been thinking, jeesh I wish that fellow had some of the backup resources I have. That said, I believe your $300 bones might be better spend on external backup. A really sweet unit is the Vantec Neostar MX. It supports 2 drives. and has both esata 6 and USB 3.0 interface. I ordered mine online for about $70. And although I have it running with only a single 6 TB WD Red Nasware Drive (appx $230 USD), I will be buying more drives as time goes on.
Actually, I am likely going to pull that 1 drive, slip it into plastic, and store it at my son's place for offsite storage. Then I'll pop in another 1 or maybe 2 for a total of 12 TB. I am also fortunate in that I also have a NAS with 21 TB of storage space, but Windows doesn't play nice with it for backup because it is EXT4 and not NTFS. I can back up to it, but can't restore from it, because the windows boot media doesn't provide a driver until it is fully loaded.
Anyway, both my SSD's contain a full installation of Windows or Win 10 and many, many programs on each and I am only using appx 1/3 of their capacity respectively.
Some thought for u. If you want to try installing to you existing SSD, please let us know the size. And if you are planning a clean install, then goodbye to any virus for sure.
cheers, Allan
It's not my place to discourage or rob you of the awesome felling of acquiring some new pc hardware because we all know how great that feels!
What size is you current SSD? I have two in my machine and they are both 240GB each. I have Win 7 on one and win 10 on the other. BothOS's are configured to do most of their reading and writing to a 1-TB HDD. I can boot from either and I am still sharing my same document, picture, music, mail etc. as they have been moved from C: to D (the HDD).
After hearing about the trouble you have been having, I have been thinking, jeesh I wish that fellow had some of the backup resources I have. That said, I believe your $300 bones might be better spend on external backup. A really sweet unit is the Vantec Neostar MX. It supports 2 drives. and has both esata 6 and USB 3.0 interface. I ordered mine online for about $70. And although I have it running with only a single 6 TB WD Red Nasware Drive (appx $230 USD), I will be buying more drives as time goes on.
Actually, I am likely going to pull that 1 drive, slip it into plastic, and store it at my son's place for offsite storage. Then I'll pop in another 1 or maybe 2 for a total of 12 TB. I am also fortunate in that I also have a NAS with 21 TB of storage space, but Windows doesn't play nice with it for backup because it is EXT4 and not NTFS. I can back up to it, but can't restore from it, because the windows boot media doesn't provide a driver until it is fully loaded.
Anyway, both my SSD's contain a full installation of Windows or Win 10 and many, many programs on each and I am only using appx 1/3 of their capacity respectively.
Some thought for u. If you want to try installing to you existing SSD, please let us know the size. And if you are planning a clean install, then goodbye to any virus for sure.
cheers, Allan
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I have several HDDs. Running my OS on a Raid1 array on two Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB. No more of that! Mess one up and they both get it.
Another 1TB WD Black for storage.
A storage 1TB Caviar Blue.
An external Esata enclosure with two WD enterprise 750GB's in Raid1.
So you see I am HDD poor!
gapi is for Georgia Private Investigator (now former status but instruct newb's)
So I needed to make lots of BU's and have lots of space for court sensitive data in triplicate. Lots of it processed and raw videos and photos.
My OS HDD has all my personal stuff, docs, pics, vids, music, downloads, and programs etc. Its 286GB free of 931GB. All this on a SSD would be snappy eh?
I am new to SSD so tell me what you would do with my hardware?
I have Genie9 BU ware for automation.
Another 1TB WD Black for storage.
A storage 1TB Caviar Blue.
An external Esata enclosure with two WD enterprise 750GB's in Raid1.
So you see I am HDD poor!
gapi is for Georgia Private Investigator (now former status but instruct newb's)
So I needed to make lots of BU's and have lots of space for court sensitive data in triplicate. Lots of it processed and raw videos and photos.
My OS HDD has all my personal stuff, docs, pics, vids, music, downloads, and programs etc. Its 286GB free of 931GB. All this on a SSD would be snappy eh?
I am new to SSD so tell me what you would do with my hardware?
I have Genie9 BU ware for automation.
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Gabi,
I thought you said you already had an SSD. That you were trying to install Win 10 on to it? Did i read wrong.? If i didn't, what size is it? If you have one and assuming it is big enough, would you like to install Win 10 and all your programs on it?
Also, if you have a raid 1 running on 2 one TB drives, the whole idea of having raid 1 is that you CAN lose or 'mess' one drive up because there is an exact mirror on the other! That is the sole purpose of Raid 1. Now raid 0 adds the capacity of 2 drives together and performs stripping for superior IO speed. But if you lose a drive in a Raid zero configuration, its all gone. are u certain you aren't mixing the 2 raid configurations up?
I am assuming your 2 1TB storage drive are internal. Thus you only have the one external enclose that is 750MB in size. Not very much external backup. None off site. And if your box took a power hit, both your internal drives would get it too.
Please answer the questions. Ok?
Also, what is the make of your external 2 drive appliance ?
rgds, allan
PS. Again I am off to bed Gabi. I will check tomorrow.
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Sorry you got twisted. I posted this thread in preparation of going to an SSD & Win10 at the same time.
I am going to an SSD for the 1st time.
From an HDD Win7 Pro, to SSD Win10 Pro.
I guess I'll run all my OS and personal data on it and have a 4 1TB & two 750GB HDD's to make up external BU drives with, and at least one that I'll use for system images once a month or so overwriting the previous as I go.
I ran Raid1 for hardware failure protection. And it served its purpose once. I had a HDD die and the machine kept going on the remaining survivor until WD warrantied the bad one. With a healthy Raid1 array if one gets a virus the other gets a virus. Raid1 is like having a run flat tire. I think I will trust the SSD enough not being mechanical and all.
I know I was not optimal BU-wise but that's going to change. I don't store large amounts like I used to as an active PI.
So my thing here is getting a free and clean Win10 Pro install Upgrade on a single SSD. The BU stuff will come after.
Thanks By The Way!
I am going to an SSD for the 1st time.
From an HDD Win7 Pro, to SSD Win10 Pro.
I guess I'll run all my OS and personal data on it and have a 4 1TB & two 750GB HDD's to make up external BU drives with, and at least one that I'll use for system images once a month or so overwriting the previous as I go.
I ran Raid1 for hardware failure protection. And it served its purpose once. I had a HDD die and the machine kept going on the remaining survivor until WD warrantied the bad one. With a healthy Raid1 array if one gets a virus the other gets a virus. Raid1 is like having a run flat tire. I think I will trust the SSD enough not being mechanical and all.
I know I was not optimal BU-wise but that's going to change. I don't store large amounts like I used to as an active PI.
So my thing here is getting a free and clean Win10 Pro install Upgrade on a single SSD. The BU stuff will come after.
Thanks By The Way!
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Oh Jeesh,
Oh boy, did I ever get twisted. Thanks for sorting me out. I owe an apology to Mr. Ed, because I mentioned you already had an SSD with a corrupted win 7 on it. My bad. Sorry Mr. Ed.
With SSDs most folks do as much as posible to move folders targeted for daily reads, writes, and deletes onto a mechanical drive, since the SSD technology has a finite life based on a limited number of writes and deletes.
Ten is more intend (that 7 was) on thrashing our SSDs. And you obviously need SSD speed for all your documents. SSDs are becoming cheaper, and as long as you mirror it quite often, and more so, as time goes on you'll be covered. Under those conditions, it won't last nearly as long as a mechanical drive. But HDD I/O is much slower than SDD
Myself, having external storage capacity for 21 TB NAS + 6 TB (expandable to 12 TB) USB 3.0 / eSata 6, + 2 TB eSata, + about another 700 GB in other small USB devices, you can appreciate why I struggle to have my two 240 GB SSDs optimized as much as possible to be ONLY for OS versions and Programs with all editable files on cheaper internal HDD. I would need very deep pockets indeed, if I demanded to work, on and store my volume of data on SSD technology.
I believe all will go well for you. How can it not, given your dedicated planning and research.
cheers, allan
Oh boy, did I ever get twisted. Thanks for sorting me out. I owe an apology to Mr. Ed, because I mentioned you already had an SSD with a corrupted win 7 on it. My bad. Sorry Mr. Ed.
With SSDs most folks do as much as posible to move folders targeted for daily reads, writes, and deletes onto a mechanical drive, since the SSD technology has a finite life based on a limited number of writes and deletes.
Ten is more intend (that 7 was) on thrashing our SSDs. And you obviously need SSD speed for all your documents. SSDs are becoming cheaper, and as long as you mirror it quite often, and more so, as time goes on you'll be covered. Under those conditions, it won't last nearly as long as a mechanical drive. But HDD I/O is much slower than SDD
Myself, having external storage capacity for 21 TB NAS + 6 TB (expandable to 12 TB) USB 3.0 / eSata 6, + 2 TB eSata, + about another 700 GB in other small USB devices, you can appreciate why I struggle to have my two 240 GB SSDs optimized as much as possible to be ONLY for OS versions and Programs with all editable files on cheaper internal HDD. I would need very deep pockets indeed, if I demanded to work, on and store my volume of data on SSD technology.
I believe all will go well for you. How can it not, given your dedicated planning and research.
cheers, allan
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I'm Baaaaaaack!
I'm running and typing on Win10 Pro installed on a Sandisk X400 1TB SSD.
I used the media creation USB dongle routine and it went smooth and fast.
My MoBo has a dual BIOS. I shut down disconnecting my OS HDD's and connected the SSD.
I flipped the BIOS switch to the No.2 side and booted to it and loaded optimized defaults, and did the usual voltage and RAM tweaking and such.
We didn't miss a beat. No driver probs, no program incompatibilities, scary smooth.
I did fudge a little allowing a 450MB recovery partition, a 100MB EFI System partition, and a 15MB unallocated partition to be created. UGH! So i wound up with 953.32GB. What did I do or not do and can I recover the space.
Whats on the recovery partition? Is that from the "if you want to revert thing?
Now do I have trim, is there any utilities I need to run, too late?
Thanks, Folks
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H WB Motherboard
Intel Ivy Bridge i7 3770K clocked @ 4.5GHz
16GB Kingston Hyper-X Genesis 2133 RAM
Water cooling by XSPC RASA RS240 Kit
Sapphire HD 6850 1GB DDR5 GPU
1TB - SSD Sandisk X400
Corsair HX750W Professional PSU
Windows 10 Professional (x64)
I'm running and typing on Win10 Pro installed on a Sandisk X400 1TB SSD.
I used the media creation USB dongle routine and it went smooth and fast.
My MoBo has a dual BIOS. I shut down disconnecting my OS HDD's and connected the SSD.
I flipped the BIOS switch to the No.2 side and booted to it and loaded optimized defaults, and did the usual voltage and RAM tweaking and such.
We didn't miss a beat. No driver probs, no program incompatibilities, scary smooth.
I did fudge a little allowing a 450MB recovery partition, a 100MB EFI System partition, and a 15MB unallocated partition to be created. UGH! So i wound up with 953.32GB. What did I do or not do and can I recover the space.
Whats on the recovery partition? Is that from the "if you want to revert thing?
Now do I have trim, is there any utilities I need to run, too late?
Thanks, Folks
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H WB Motherboard
Intel Ivy Bridge i7 3770K clocked @ 4.5GHz
16GB Kingston Hyper-X Genesis 2133 RAM
Water cooling by XSPC RASA RS240 Kit
Sapphire HD 6850 1GB DDR5 GPU
1TB - SSD Sandisk X400
Corsair HX750W Professional PSU
Windows 10 Professional (x64)